18 replies to this topic

[pammyfay]

I really enjoy walking (sometimes a very fast walk!) my pup (she turns 1 in September) with the Flexi retractable (this is the full webbing version, not the cord type) --really I do. She gets to sniff, wander but I can still reel her back in if quickly if an unfamiliar dog is nearby or if I spot something she's likely to want to put in her mouth (mushrooms are out around here, and they are poisonous).

But twice in the past few weeks, the clip attached to her collar has slipped off. The first time was at night. She sensed it and walked faster along our route, me walking a bit faster to catch up with her. She figured it was a fun game; slipped right out of my clutches once, finally got her when she needed to stop and pee again. The second time it happened, for some crazy reason she actually sat when I sternly said "WAIT." I don't know what made her actually listen; just glad she did.

This happened once in my 3 years with my first Cairn. Ended up having to "speed" walk after her, around the block.

After the first clip failure, I thought, well, maybe the clip is just worn out, not closing as tightly, and I bought a new Flexi. Then it happened again (that was when "Wait" actually worked with her).

First question: IF you have Flexi leash, have you used the black webbed "safety collar" they include with it? I am going to put it on her, but the safety collar is so long I just can't imagine that if the leash's clip should detach from her everyday collar that the additional "safety collar" is going to hold around her head long enough before she tries to get out of it (maybe just long enough for me to grab her?).

Second question (background, first): My sister has always walked her older Cairn with a slip collar, the chain type. He escaped from a collar or leash a couple of times when he was younger, but I believe that now with the slip collar--and he's older now, a much slower walker anyway--they don't have a problem with him getting out of it.

So talk to me about slip collars and alternative leashes and collars.
I sometimes used a harness for my first pup; I don't think that's a solution.

Some of the leashes for bigger dogs have a different type of clip (where there's an overlap on the metal, if you can picture it, rather than the Flexi's type, which looks to be a spring-loaded piece that you slide down to open and when it's closed, it just touches the top piece of the clip). But those leashes' clips are heavier, and the leash webbing is thicker; not sure that's a good thing in the end.

I must add that even at close to a year, I am still trying to work with her to not pull so much (it should be 'not pull at all,' I know).
I know that we would both be in a better position without the pulling.

Pls share your experience and leash success!

[ScruffynMag]

I use the Puppia Dog Harness which has a really strong thick D ring. The retractable leash I use also has a thick strong fastener that I attach to the D ring. He is still a puppy and tends to pull sometimes but I find the harness and leash very stable and safe to use.
The retractable leash I use is the tape type, not the cord type. I find he doesn't pull when he has the retractable leash on, only when he has the ordinary leash on. I use the ordinary leash if we are going by the side of a road where traffic is because I feel more in control.

Edited by ScruffynMag, 27 August 2010 - 11:40 AM.

[remltr]

I have several Flexi leashes. I really dislike the web ones, don't care for the feel of it as it retracts and the fact that it usually seems to curl as it retracts. Had one of those and replaced it with the cord type. The main one I use is 24'. Gives Sassy plenty of length to roam, which can be dangerous if you are near traffic and aren't paying attention, really need to be proactive with that much lead.

Anyway to answer your questions. Never use the safety clip, can't see how it would correct your issue, if I am understanding it correctly. And also have never had the issue you are describing. The only thing I don't really care for about the Flexi is that the smaller the dog that a particular leash is intended for they make the handle smaller as well. I have pretty beefy hands and need the largest handle in order to get all four fingers through the handle. Don't even try to wear gloves in the winter time, just forget it.

A retractable leash is probably not the type of leash to use if pulling is an issue. I would use the shortest hand leash possible for better correction control. More immediate response and better feel for how much pressure you are applying during correction.

Hopefully my contribution is helpful.

Edited by remltr, 27 August 2010 - 11:37 AM.

[Holly&me]

I do not use a flexi leash - I have one that is tape type but Holly just does not seem to walk right when I have used it[only in parks] - she does not pull but stops and starts as I put the "brake" on............. so I have a ordinary short leash attached to harness for most walks, and a extra long leash that I use when we go on walks in country park away from traffic.
One of the reasons I am hesitant about flexi leashes is that a friend of mine had a dog that pulled on one and ran into road and was knocked down by a cyclist - my friend's leash brake failed to operate as she had just bent down to pick up some poop. The dog was injured and became very scared of traffic. So I worry about it happening to me!

[MegsMom]

1) You can add a small carabiner clip to the flexi and couple it to the flexi and collar, in case of 'slip-offs'. Or just use the carbiner instead of the flexi clip--the carabiner would be much more secure, and just as easy to work.

2) Using the flexi guard loop might be handy if you had a collar problem, but it can do no good when you suddenly have a leash disengage-- no leash, is no leash.

3) It doesn't sound like you have a collar problem, but if you want a different type, you might check into a martingale or greyhound collar, that's the type that have a partial piece of chain in the webbing. The webbing section is adjustable, so that hooking to the chain section, it can't tighten past a certain point to end up strangling your dog like a normal choke or slip collar can. Sometimes they're called 'limited slip collars'.

4) Using a flexi, is a great way to NOT teach no pulling; all flexis exert a constant pull on the dog, so they don't do a thing to help teach no pulling. You have to teach no pulling first, be sure they've "got the idea" then you may be able to use a flexi, but it can also cause setbacks. You'd be better able to teach no pulling by using a long training line--and I guarantee, you can learn to reel that long line in quite quickly, when needed. I have a preference for the 15ft flat webbing tie-out leads at Walmart, as they have a clip on each end, plus a sliding loop along the webbing, so you can clip them around you or a stationary object if need should arise.

5) To stop the dog from pulling you need to clip the leash somewhere other than in a direct line with the dog. A harness ring is directly inline between you & the dog; a collar ring rotates to be directly inline with you & the dog, this direct force line gives the dog something to pull against (you) and more pulling results in you following the dog to relieve the pressure, which results in the dog achieving forward movement. It's all self-feeding, the dog pulls, it moves forward--exactly what they wanted! Nope, go back to a regular harness, the type with the ring at the chest straps junction, clip to that chest ring. (Hook on with the clip thumb-slider facing out.) When the dog pulls, no direct line to you occurs; and clipped to the chest ring, the dog swings itself around on its front feet to partially face you, achieving NO results with a pull--hey, they wanted to go forward, not be swung back [by their own force ] to partially facing you! The no-pull harnesses create the same effect, but you can try out the method with a simple basic harness, then decide if you want to spend more on one of the specifically designed for no-pulling type harness.

If you'll carry some super treats in your hand, it's less likely the dog will be interested in roaming out away from those treats; just reward them with tiny bits when they're in proper heel position, and none if they range forward. Be sure to reinforce the word "heel" when you treat, as in "good heel". For the initial lessons on this, I like to carry a chunk of roast beef, if I drop it, I'm only fetching back one piece, and it can be dropped in my pocket easily. One chunk that you can pinch off tiny treats and lots of smell that make them want to stay by you! [If I don't have a 'chunk' of meat in the house, I'll buy something to boil (the dog doesn't care how it's cooked) or I'll go by a deli and have them cut 1 slice of my choice about 3/4inch thick, then cut that into quarters when I get home, to get my 'chunks' to pinch from.] By carrying that chunk of treat, this also teaches the dog to look up at you, to see if you're going to treat them, reinforcing your dog's attention on you, when you say something to them. Very handy, they tend not to forget the 'conditioning' to hear you, when you talk to them (and you thought cairns couldn't multi-task, they can listen and sniff at the same time!--never said they'd obey what you say, though).

The basic harness suits me fine, because I teach proper loose-lead walking at the same time; our walks may not get very far during the early learning phase, but just a week at it, and we do progress nicely. Once they have the correct idea, it's a simple matter of continued reinforcing on longer walks. Mine know that "heel' means drop back at my knee. Otherwise, they're free to roam the leashes length, without pulling on me--until I give the 'heel' order, or reel them in fast. [With walking 2, off in different directions, I have gotten in a position, that I reacted and 'reeled', then gave an order ]

And a little something that may help; when I stop to pickup poop, I stand on their leashes, so they can't pull me over and I know where they are and what they're doing while I'm not looking. Doesn't matter the length of the leash, I 'anchor' them right next to me, we walk in a park frequently and I have seen food bits & bones laying about that I most certainly don't want them having. {I do pickup & properly deposit.}

[kintra]

I always walk my Cairns on slip collars or slip leads. I usually use the nylon ones (White Pine Outfitters has great slip collars/martingales) and they allow you to put the collar right up under the chin/behind the ears where it's supposed to go, giving you more control and less pulling. I've never had a dog slip out of one. For walks I often use a slip lead with Zach so he learns to stay in heel position.

[cairnsby3]

The thing that I recommend when using a Flexi is to put a small strap thru the handle as a wrist strap. I use a small buckle collar. Having a wrist strap will keep you from ever dropping it when they take off suddenly after something (and everyone dropps on sooner or later) and it's handy for when you need both hands to get the poop picked up.

[wallEsmama]

I've *actually* almost successfully gotten wallE to sit after hes pooped while I pick it up. He finishes, we make him sit and he waits for me or my boyfriend to pick it up. When we're ready to go, we say "okay, lets go" and we're off. It works about 80% of the time! I use a Nylon Check Choke Collar and standard lightweight leash. However, I'm not happy with how the collar has affected his neck fur, so I'm contemplating picking up another Easy Walk Harness. I had one before and it was great, but at 40 bucks a pop, at the time I couldn't afford another one. Especially since the one before only lasted about 1 month because a certain boy in this house found it and chewed it up, breaking it! (Ill give you a hint, it was NOT my boyfriend or brother, lol!)

[janis]

Where do you get an easy walk harness? I bought just a plain nylon step in harness and it seens to rub around his front legs. I have been using his car harness because I like the way its padded over the chest (and he won't wear it in the car anyway! ) but, it has that sheep skin on it and it gets really dirty in a hurry. We walk with a flex type leash, but, I don't feel like I have good control and the handle is a little small (does smaller dog mean the owner is supposed to have little hands?) and he has suprised me several times and jerked it out of my hand resulting in chase the dog and hope to catch the handle!

[jimnconnie]

janis, on 30 August 2010 - 11:26 AM, said:

Where do you get an easy walk harness?

I believe we got our Easy Walk harnesses at Petsmart a couple of years ago. Check with them online to be sure.

[sanford]

wallEsmama, on 30 August 2010 - 09:24 AM, said:

I'm not happy with how the collar has affected his neck fur...

Collars made of nylon and some other materials can damage & thin the hair on the neck. Rolled leather collars will not affect the hair and are recommended for this reason.

[kintra]

I think its important to remember that any type of collar will damage the neck hair if it's not placed properly (which probably 99% of them are usually kept too low). I simply use a nylon choke for training and walks because it offers me a quick correction and it does not cut the hair like a lot of metal chokes can. Around the house, my Cairns do not wear collars.

[sanford]

kintra, on 28 August 2010 - 09:57 AM, said:

...I usually use the nylon ones (White Pine Outfitters has great slip collars/martingales) and they allow you to put the collar right up under the chin/behind the ears where it's supposed to go, giving you more control and less pulling...

kintra, on 30 August 2010 - 08:15 PM, said:

...any type of collar will damage the neck hair if it's not placed properly (which probably 99% of them are usually kept too low). I simply use a nylon choke for training and walks because it offers me a quick correction and it does not cut the hair like a lot of metal chokes can. Around the house, my Cairns do not wear collars...

Thanks for this info, Kintra. My (expensive) rolled leather collar is starting to wear out. I looked up White Pine Outfitters and they do indeed say that their nylon collars don't damage the neck hairs. The prices are excellent and I'm going to try one.

My cairn wears his collar with his ID tags, 24/7. I do this as a precaution, even though he's microchipped. I know of (rare) instances when fire or emergency personnel entered the home and the dogs ran out and ended up in shelters. I'm probably being over-cautious, but that's just me!

[kintra]

If a collar is weighted down with tags, it's more likely to cause at least some damage to the hair. I use a White Pine martingale for my Min Pin and she still has a bit of a "ruff" where the collar was, but it's not as bad as her rolled leather one was. Once you get started on White Pine, it's almost an addiction - they're SO incredibly soft and come in a lot of fun colors

[bradl]

I can second that. A very nice Cairn person donated some White Pine collars and leashes to our club to help us fund-raise. They went into a raffle, but I should have schemed harder to keep them myself somehow